RobH
Gone - bye bye.
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I wish I had a pic of my Hyper .21 8-Port Race with the O.S. 20e carb on it, but I don't. You’ll just have to use your IMAAAGINAAAATION.
The Hyper .21 engines are known for a lot of power for not a lot of green. The downside to the Hyper .21 series is the difficulty so many people have with tuning these engines. I read a rumor on the OFNA boards that the OS 20e carb is a direct fit on the Hyper .21.
I run a Hyper .21 8-Port Race in my 1/8 buggy. I purchased an OS 20e carb from a guy locally. The other night, I tested the rumor about the 20e carb. It fits like a dream! I didn’t get an o-ring with my used carb, but borrowing the o-ring from the stock carb was not a problem. Two nights ago, I re-tuned my engine for the new carb. Wow, does the new carb make a difference! Even with my rough, novice tuning skills, I had it dialed in no time. It has better bottom end now, but I think that was a tuning error on my part with the old carb.
If all of the Hyper .21 engines have the same stock carb and hence the same diameter “carb hole” in the crankcase, anyone that has a Hyper .21 can use the OS 20e carb. I can not verify that, but my gut tells me this is more than likely the case. Take that advice anyway you like.
A few things to remember before you slap the 20e on your Hyper .21:
Make sure you have an o-ring to seal the carb to the engine. If you don’t, do like I did and borrow the o-ring from the stock carb. You can also use a carb sealer. I have this stuff called “Air Seal” which will seal the carb too. I didn’t use it, but it doesn’t seem I have any air leaks anyway (not over heating or anything).
YOU MUST RE-TUNE YOUR ENGINE. (duh?)
VERY IMPORTANT: Your old carb settings (5-6 turns out for break in, blah blah blah) no longer apply. In order to use your new carb properly, you must download, and read the manual for O.S. max-21RG engine:
http://www.osengines.com/manuals/21rg-manual.pdf
20e Carb Settings Summary:
Base-Line HSN Setting: 3 turns counter clockwise from lightly seated
Base-Line LSN Setting: 1 turn clockwise from flush with the carb housing
(This is a two-needle carb and the LSN adjustment is now where the old mid range needle was on the Hyper .21’s carb. It’s also called “Mixture Control Value”, but same difference.)
You really should read the manual for the full details. It gives some top-notch tuning advice, which helped out this newbie tuner a lot.
How much is this going to run me, you ask? Well, if you buy a new OS 20e, you’re looking at $70. That sucks when it’s a bargain engine to begin with. You can get them on ebay from time to time for $30. Also, the guy I bought my 20e from said he has a couple more he could sell. I think you’d be less than $30 after shipping. Send me a PM if you’d like me to hook you up with his email.
-Rob
The Hyper .21 engines are known for a lot of power for not a lot of green. The downside to the Hyper .21 series is the difficulty so many people have with tuning these engines. I read a rumor on the OFNA boards that the OS 20e carb is a direct fit on the Hyper .21.
I run a Hyper .21 8-Port Race in my 1/8 buggy. I purchased an OS 20e carb from a guy locally. The other night, I tested the rumor about the 20e carb. It fits like a dream! I didn’t get an o-ring with my used carb, but borrowing the o-ring from the stock carb was not a problem. Two nights ago, I re-tuned my engine for the new carb. Wow, does the new carb make a difference! Even with my rough, novice tuning skills, I had it dialed in no time. It has better bottom end now, but I think that was a tuning error on my part with the old carb.
If all of the Hyper .21 engines have the same stock carb and hence the same diameter “carb hole” in the crankcase, anyone that has a Hyper .21 can use the OS 20e carb. I can not verify that, but my gut tells me this is more than likely the case. Take that advice anyway you like.
A few things to remember before you slap the 20e on your Hyper .21:
Make sure you have an o-ring to seal the carb to the engine. If you don’t, do like I did and borrow the o-ring from the stock carb. You can also use a carb sealer. I have this stuff called “Air Seal” which will seal the carb too. I didn’t use it, but it doesn’t seem I have any air leaks anyway (not over heating or anything).
YOU MUST RE-TUNE YOUR ENGINE. (duh?)
VERY IMPORTANT: Your old carb settings (5-6 turns out for break in, blah blah blah) no longer apply. In order to use your new carb properly, you must download, and read the manual for O.S. max-21RG engine:
http://www.osengines.com/manuals/21rg-manual.pdf
20e Carb Settings Summary:
Base-Line HSN Setting: 3 turns counter clockwise from lightly seated
Base-Line LSN Setting: 1 turn clockwise from flush with the carb housing
(This is a two-needle carb and the LSN adjustment is now where the old mid range needle was on the Hyper .21’s carb. It’s also called “Mixture Control Value”, but same difference.)
You really should read the manual for the full details. It gives some top-notch tuning advice, which helped out this newbie tuner a lot.
How much is this going to run me, you ask? Well, if you buy a new OS 20e, you’re looking at $70. That sucks when it’s a bargain engine to begin with. You can get them on ebay from time to time for $30. Also, the guy I bought my 20e from said he has a couple more he could sell. I think you’d be less than $30 after shipping. Send me a PM if you’d like me to hook you up with his email.
-Rob
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