Hyper 8 port. what to add.

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nitrojunkie

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I've read your posts on break-in well I'm guna go for it..:hehe:

what else should I get. I have read about 3 shoe clutch.
where do i get one.
16t clutch bell. (this makes it faster still right)
what exhaust or can i use or adapt my standard exhaust.
I already have Bigger air filter.
20% nitro still or is there something better.
which fuel is best with hyper 8 port.

can I run in my engine screwed down on a wooden block with fuel tank and exhaust attached.

other than dogbones what else is guna break :( on my truck once i start running the 8 port.

I'm sure there are others who want to know this. I think i'll make a booklet on how to and what to add to install a hyper 8 port to a savage21.
 
the stock stuff like fly,clutch 16 bell work fine I'm looking for 3 shoe clutch myslef break-in not as bad as u think stock works fine but up greds are always best.i steel nead to know what the best dogbones are i broke HPI hd crome ones
 
I would definitly change the pipe or the whole exhaust system. RD makes a nice one for the Savage. If you really want a good pipe, go for the RB buggy pipe.
 
three shoe clutch stuff and part #s from pages of www.savage-central.com

http://www.savage-central.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=22


This is from 32ford aka Jim...
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Installing a 3 shoe clutch on the Savage is pretty easy, and the benefits are well worth the effort. I found the stock clutch to be a little on the week side, and it would slip occasionally. With the 3 shoe clutch the truck launches much harder, and has very positive engagement.

Parts needed: Mugen C0710, Ofna 10400, Ofna 10099 (optional), Mugen C0704

The installation is very straight forward, and easy to do. I had to do a couple of specific things to get the clutch bell gear to fully engage the spur gear.

1) I had to remove .021 thousands from the back of the brass taper drive collet that came on the engine (I did not use the steel collet that came in the Mugen kit). I removed the matrial by using 240 grit wet or dry sand paper with 3 in 1 oil as lube. With the sand paper on a flat surface I sanded the back of the collet in a circular motion, checking it frequintly. It takes no time at all to remove. The starting dimesion was .2765 and the finished dimension was .2555. Resulting in .021 removed.

2) I had to remove .035 thousands from the front of the new clutch nut. I did this procedure in my lathe, but I belive you can remove the material in the same manner as you did the collet, it just might take a little extra time. The starting dimension was .3450 and the finish dimension was .3100. Resulting in .035 removed.

3) Do a dry assembly of everything minus the clutch shoes. (once they are on, they are a pain to get off, so don't put them on until final assembly and you will install them in the trailing configuration (see photo)) With the clutch bell installed you will have about 2.5mm of crank shaft sticking out. You have two choices, you can cut it off or you can shim it. Either way you go, you need to have slight end play in the bell, just enough so it will rock back and forth on the shaft, and the bearings are not pinched. I was lucky and found the inner race from a 5x8x2.5 bearing that had come a part and used it as a spacer. With the bolt in the end of the crank shaft I have .006 thousands of end play in the clutch bell. (it's times like these that i am glad i save stuff) Now that everything is assembled mount the engine in the chassis and make sure that the clutch bell teeth are centered in the spur gear teeth. If they are not then adjust the the clutch bell acordingly. I.E. remove a little more material from the collet or use one of the shims from the Onfna shim kit behind the collet.

4) Once you have every thing the way you want it, disassemble, degreas the crank shaft threads, clutch nut and 3mm bolt that goes in the end of the crank. Now reassemble using LokTite on the nut and bolt. (A little tip: Take a tooth pick with a little drop of LokTite on it, and place it in the end of the crank, then install the bolt. By doing it this way it will prevent LokTite from oozing out and getting into the front bearing)

5) Install the engine and go have some fun.

The only draw back to this set-up I have found is, if your a little rich on the bottom end it will have a slight bog of the line. No big deal, just lean it out a tad and it will explode off the line. You can use up to a 15T bell with the flywheel in stock form. To run up to a 17T bell the flywheel diameter will have to be turned down to 33mm, otherwise it will hit the chassis when you slide the engine over to get proper gear mesh.

Links to all the parts:

Mugen C0710: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNJ82&P=0

Ofna 10401: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBL93&P=0

Ofna 10099: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNT03&P=0

Mugen C0704: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=C0704&FVPROFIL=++

Good Luck,

Jim....

you will have ot look up the 15t, 16t bell #s.. the 17t will fit if the flywheel is turned down some..
 
hey crismp5 what do you mean 17t flywheel turn down some. and how fast is a hyper 8 port with a 17t bell.
 
I'm a bit of a newbie to upgrades 'hopups' which pipe is being recormended and i mean i need part no's. which clutch is best not sure I'm upto doing a 3shoe upgrade and am worried a 3shoe will add loads more stress to drive train. I dont have to buy hpi 16 tooth do i. which is best??

my hyper 8 port is on its way :) and i want to upgrade the rest at the same time. pipe, clutch & 16t.

suspension is next.

I love my savage its strength inspires much confidence to do huge jumps. brill.:bling:

also what glow pug is best for ofna hyper 8 port.

one more. where are the 8 ports. all i know is it makes it quick and powerfull.

can the .21 bb be ported where is there info on this?

cheers. anyone? please help...
 
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