Hey all, the conecting rod finally broke on my 3.3. Can anyone pls tell me if these engine is well maintained with the after run procedure or, is it well abussed? I know I pushed it to the edge for the CR to break &, I sure hope any of you can tell me that, it is long enough for nitro beginner to split a CR in half. thx in advance for your input, pls see pics.
Did you buy the engine second hand or were you the original owner? What were the temps, did it ever over heat? Did it see WOT for long stretches or short bursts? Was your gearing correct, if it was wrong you could have put added stress by either more strain of over revving the engine. How did you shut your engine off, pinch the line, plug the exhaust or slow the flywheel? As far as the con rod splitting, it is a known weak point in the 3.3, I've heard of people running a Davis Diesel con rod. This one is supposed to be stronger and have a bushing where the stock one doesn't, RB Mods also has a "stronger" con rod. I haven't had one fail on me but I only have one 3.3 that was so gummed up when I got it that it wouldn't turn over. I cleaned it up and it runs like a champ.
Long extended WOT runs will send a 3.3 to an early grave.
It’s hard to tell with the quality of the pics, but it looks like it has been run lean for a bit.
thx for the input SM, before the rod gave. The engine created more smoke than it use to, I ran the engine with always a blue smoke coming out of the pipe, aviously the smoke was too thin. I will richen the next go round after the rebuild. I assumed the break in process should be performed after rebuild? thx in advance.
In my opinion, a rebuild on a 3.3 isn't worth it. It's more to do a PROPER rebuild than it is to get a 3.3 through the trade up program. If you're not looking for the MOST power you should look at the Dynamite .19, it's slightly smaller (.19 vs .20) than the 3.3 but it is a little easier to tune and holds a tune a little better, plus it's only $110 and you don't have to wait for the turn around on the trade up. The only thing I don't like about the .19 is the fact that the carb neck is thinner than the traxxas one, you have to ziptie the filter on really tight (I still lost one after multiple hard landings) Dynamite does have one that fits better, I've installed it but have yet to run it.
i just paid around 120$ for new block, piston/sleeve, rod, crank, carb and air filter.... that includes bearings (backplate and head are in perfect condition. other parts had wear marks etc).... and that was including delivery to aus.... but i only got that as im waiting for my picco 26 JLR to come off back order which will be another 2-4 weeks away till i get it... need something in the mean time to play with.
could of, but now i have a block that im going to try and turn into a bottle opener...
but the head on mine isnt that old and i didnt wanna wait around for a month while i have no motor.... im getting the head shims so that will be like new again and the backplate. well its a backplate but i have a new starter shaft in there anyway. so everything else will be like new.
Thx to all for some great input, I think I'm going to do the trade in route. It is much better these way since, I have more knowledge now as far as the brake in procedures. The next model I buy will be for track racing, till then. I will continue to bash, brake more parts, & learn more of these Nitro stuff. I just enjoy working on these Nitro stuff as mush as I enjoy bashing them around, most of all? I have you guys as a back up tools. Thx guys, yall Rock.