Search results

I redid my header a little bit a couple years ago. I still had the THS BB header in a drawer, the issue with it as it was was that it was intended to use with the traxxas BB mount which puts the engine down much lower and more level with the chassis. So it wasn't bent/twisted right to work well...

I know this is an older thread, but thought I'd post a guy I forgot about on youtube that was making a leaner mount/kit at one point: https://www.youtube.com/user/CkeithNitro Anyone looking might want to send him a message to see if he still has any. He had comments on his slayer video 8 months...

The only reason I mentioned it is because I'm on my 2nd aluminum chassis. On my first one, I used only the traxxas engine bay plate/brace, it started to crack and I broke 2 engine cradle/brace sets that attach to the bulkhead. So far, the new M2C brace/plate seems to be doing a better job.

So, you have CF (which is lightened for racing) and you want a ridiculous big block in it? I'm pretty sure that big engine would over stress the CF anyway with or without the NewEra mount. You might be better off looking into installing a mod'd OS18TZ in that thing.

Found a few threads via google on other places that noted you could use the traxxas bb kit but you had to use a tigerdrive rotostart instead of the pull starter. It has a more low profile housing. Also read that you need to shave the arm to clear it or find an arm with the kink in it. I believe...

I have the info in a thread I made here how it compared to the 3.3, 18TM: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/my-os-21tm-3-3-revo.112093/

Could also try the OS21Tm... although, now that I have one, it doesn't even compare to a tame big block in a revo. Doubt I'd spend that money again on it. If you get the OFNA 28, startup a new thread for how it installs and performs for you. I would be interested to read about that.

LRP 28 Spec 3 works really nice: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/new-revo-big-block-mount-in-town.105090/#post-1100724 Highly suggest an alloy 1/8th scale clutch/CB though.

LRP 28 S3 with 2 or 3 fins cut off the top so that the head was lower than the contact line between my raised roll bar and wing. The revo chassis is very susceptible to cracking in the engine bay area. I've since installed an upgraded plate under the chassis to spread some of the load better. My...

Updating with photo's since comcast dropped personal web site hosting.

You just need to get some piano wire, linkage collars, springs and figure out some sort of guide by the servo to keep the wire in line with the linkage. You can see the guide that came with my old new era kit circled here: You should be able to get away with a typical linkage slider with maybe...

Sorry, I forgot to mention that the finish was rougher since this was a prototype. As for the wire, I didn't have anything that was as stiff and couldn't get my hands on anything, so I doubled it up that way. If you figure out a source for threaded end piano wire that is long enough, let me...

Well, Racer 1966 finally spooled up the mill and spit out a mount. He used my New Era BB leaner mount as a starting point. I installed his last weekend with a new LRP28S3 with pull-start (standard big block) and a new THS rear BB pipe. I didn't care for the THS header as kit kicked the header...