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That's awesome man! Can't wait to see it on the track.

On your next mold, give Hydrocal a try man. See if that isn't a lot easier to work with. This one is looking way better than the first attempt. Good job man!

That is a helluva idear 👍

Looks so much better!

Sick build man!

That will be cool!

Yeah, yours looks way better dude. I wonder what this shell would look like done up all Road Warrior like 🤔 Might be something to consider with this prototype later on. Are you still planning on making new molds after this? I ask because almost every big project I take on, after the first...

Despite all the blems... damn it looks killer dude! I want one so bad!

We ran with 9" to 15" of vacuum, which isn't much at all. I mean I think you hit that trying to suck a DQ milkshake through a straw 🤪 But it was enough to slightly crush spray foam we used to fill gaps around molds.

I am just wondering if the vacuum is going to try to pull all the air out of the foam and crush your mold. Have you tried this on a test piece yet? If I were going to try this, I might try hydrocal instead of foam, and print the mold out of TPU, with a PLA block formed to the outside of the...

Dude, have you ever seen a show called Face Off? It is a movie makeup show, and they do a lot of mold making, vacuum forming, etc. You should check it out.

This is going to be sick. I definitely want a body if you decide to sell any.

Holy cow man. Wow. What's the name of your RC company? Because you're at that level.

I haven't tried Elegoo, but I have been considering one of their resin printers. I just hate the mess of resin printing. The resin I use is standard resin, that stinks, and you have to wear gloves. But that's not really a big deal because I only ever use a few drops of it on my tiny SCX24 parts...

That is true. A heated enclosure is the way to go on any 3d printing. I'd love to get one for my main printer, but with a 500mm x 500mm x 500mm build volume, I need a heated closet lol.

Screwing parallel to the layers is always a bit risky. Especially on thinner parts. The resin trick is really awesome. I have been using it for awhile now. I wish I had found it sooner. Oh the headaches it would have saved me trying to print tiny parts, yet keep them strong.

It's all good man. Finding that sweet spot for threading screws into plastic is a learning process. I have had more than my share of failures. And it even varies from resin to resin. I am still adamant that using any kind of screw or tap to cut threads into any plastic, whether home printed...

@five9dak - Traxxas doesn't use any special design in their screws to cut threads. They are standard machine screws, threaded into non-threaded holes. Nothing special about them. If your pilot hole is a tad bigger than the minor diameter of the screw, they will self thread into the plastic just...

Yeah, since the arms are under the body, only a big crash is going to break them. And that would break oem parts just as easily. And it's a matter of pushing a few buttons to make a replacement if that is the case. Much cheaper than buying from an outside supplier.

I dunno. If you design the parts properly, and your printer is setup right, you can print some really durable stuff.