i would still recommend the kyosho. the only parts you should keep in stock would be arms, knuckles, hubs, shock towers and tower braces. all cheap, and commonly broken parts on any car. the zx-5 is pretty darn durable though. i have an SP in the mail right now actually. let me know if you ever...
there are a few things i have that i dont need or use anymore, and a few things id like to add to the collection.
Items to go, are:
Xray FK'05 with enough parts to build 1.5 more cars minus a main chassis. there are all the parts needed to set the car up for either carpet or asphalt racing...
either thread down the shock collars equally or add in equal spacers depending on the type of shock you have. you will also probibly have to back out the droop screws equal amounts. those are the screws that thread through the suspension arm and touch the chassis. make sure you move them equally...
nope, thats too far for me. i still fit in autocrossing, car shows, and a cruise to the bahamas with that schedule. its going to be a busy year.
well then come on up this weekend, ill be there. on the 24th ill be racing rubber tire carpet at horsham rc. then on the 31st back to fredrick...
tom should you ever want to run electric touring car, gimme a shout, i have a spare car setup and ready to go, just needs a receiver dropped in. i race at hobbytown fredrick on saturdays.
to answer robs question from the original post. i will be racing 1/10 mod electric buggy in local and...
try the new type-m body as well. if your car is spinning out with the mazda 6 though, you have suspension setup issues. the mazda 6 is one of the best bodys ever made for asphalt touring. get yourself the xxx-main touring car setup guide, and read it a lot. one of the best ways to get faster.
any major wrecks recently. sounds like a damaged reciever or crystal. are you on am or fm band? am is usually glitchy as hell. is the wire inside the car touching anything before it goes into the antenna mast?
the cyclone also comes in a budget model now for around the same price as a T2R. it is however a tub chassis car instead of a double deck carbon fiber car. i would save a little longer and get a regular T2 at whatever discount you can if the T2R isnt available.
plaid, no i didnt. try again...
i hate to call you on it diver, but the fk04 used c-hub suspension, had shorter arms that mounted outside of the bulkheads. and way different shock towers. this is definately a very early T1.
the T2R is identical to the regular T2 except is uses a fiberglass chassis instead of carbon fiber...
its a very early T1. you can tell by the long arm layout, the newer cars mount the arms to the outside of the bulkheads. it also has pivot ball suspension which was only on the first of the T1's, the evo2's and the freedom of choice models. as for what its worth, that depends what you want to do...
same method applies. if your still nervous, disconnect the positive lead from the speed controls harness as heartbreak suggested. you wont blow out the esc, all your doing is powering the radio system.
i use both the auto hudy and auto ofna. the ofna bogs down on big cuts and shuts off, the hudy powers through anything. I've never used a manual truer. fortunately my local track provides truers to the public to use so I've never had to buy one.
just plug the receiver pack into the BATT slot on your receiver. no need to disable the BEC circuit the 2 will just work in parallel. receiver packs are used all the time in 12th scale racing because the 4 cell packs arent enough voltage for the servo's, especially in mod racing.
eddy, there are too many selections for all the applications. just running stock class there are over 7 i can think of off the top of my head, all have different applications for different types of tracks and driving styles.
plaid, what motor are you running, how tight a track layout, what...
damnit jeff, its not like you ever get your buggy out to race anyway. i could use the setup, but can't spare the coin lately.
hows touring car treating you lately jeremy?