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The CC is better by far but for a few dollars more you could get a tekin and for the same price an LRP. http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=TEKTT1152 You will want a Hotwire to go with the Tekin LRP is sold here in the states under AE. They have ESC's in every price range...

Look how low mine is compared to that. I still launch 20+feet in the air no problems.

Lower the truck. Adding spacers inside the shocks to limit droop and getting the arms level at rest will help a lot. I can drive mine WOT and take turns on dirt/grass/or asphalt at WOT no problem. I do have a lot more done than just some shock mods but that is a big step.

Dsm2 is 5.5 dsm is 11 so it is twice as fast. Be ware that that sr3100 RX has a high fail rate I have had two go bad. You are right though you will not notice the difference in speed unless you are running something very precise. It made a Hugh difference when I ran 1/12 scale Pan car but for...

Flex tech used to make titanium a arms. They looked cool but not good on a truck. Titanium for pins and tierods is great.

X2 LHS's make verry little on RTR's they just don't have much of a mark up. They make their money on Kits (better value in the end for you as well) and parts. The t maxx also has a higher markup for him than a savage. He is pointing you in the direction that best suits his pocket not what is...

You went all out on that mill. Kudos.

Have you considered a Truggy. Gives you the best of all worlds as far as off road goes. And is more durable and more able than any other off road RC. Check out the losi 8ight-t 2.0 RTR comes with everything you will want to upgrade in the other RC's you listed right in the box and will save you...

The 10t isn't a stadium truck. It is a 1/10 scale Truggy.

I wrote this up a while back. It was written in terms of a savage but the same rules apply to a tmaxx or any RC for that matter. http://tinyurl.com/ct5wc9j Sorry for linking another forum but I wasn't going to try to copy all that.

From my years working with metal. It only takes once to heat temper metal whether you are trying to make it harder or softer. The only thing you are doing after the first time is wearing them in. Now both are equally important. How hard the metal gets is decided by how hot it got and how fast it...

Losi 10t hands down. 4wd FTW

Lol that is funny

For glue order some CA glue online. Anything else and you will be regluing constantly.

Do you have a good radio? What kind of RC's do you already have

You need to adjust the idle screw on the side of the carb to keep it running than slowly lean out the low end to get it to stop loading up at idle. The LSN is the one on the slide of the carb. As you lean the LSN you will need to turn down the idle.

The F has a silver block and the K has a black block. The F is a little bit stronger and faster engine than the K. The F is actually the ofna force .28 and the k is the axial .28.

I'm confused are you trying to glue something or remove glue?

Looks like it was a decent touring sedan in its day. Hope you get it figured. Are you going to try to get it going?

Yea. After running about 5-6 mins shut off and let cool than repeat.