Tuned Pipes for Savage

[leadfoot567]

Do you have any shims on the shaft before the first CB bearing?

Yes, there's one spacer before the first CB bearing. Plus there's a brass spacer after the 2nd CB bearing. I've even updated to the new style spacer. Which is the black style. Since my Savage was the 25 RTR version, it had the brass style. My friends 4.6x Savage has the black style spacer. I've enclosed 2 pictures below. I've used both styles. But still hasn't fixed the problem. I'm using the purple aluminum 3 clutch shoes by HPI. I've also tried the Jammin aluminum red 3 clutch shoes too. I thought the same thing when I saw the distance between the clutch bell and the flywheel. I can almost see the clutch shoes peaking through. I tried removing the spacer (its the HP part number Z694. Which is 5x10x0.5mm thick) But when I do, the clutch bell bottoms out on the crankshaft.

Here's the brass style. Part number 86121.

Here's the newer black style spacer. Part number 86171

 

[olds97_lss]

To me, it almost looks like your input shaft is bent. When you spin the spur, does it spin pretty true or does it wobble? This won't help your cb/spur alignment at all, but to really looks like the bottom of the spur is about 1.5-2mm in further than the top of the spur. Could just be photographic trickery.

 

[leadfoot567]

To me, it almost looks like your input shaft is bent. When you spin the spur, does it spin pretty true or does it wobble? This won't help your cb/spur alignment at all, but to really looks like the bottom of the spur is about 1.5-2mm in further than the top of the spur. Could just be photographic trickery.

Yeah I noticed that after I took the picture. It's not any photo trickery. I looked at it with the naked eye. It does look like it's bent. I'm guessing that's from hard landings in the past. Besides stock, I wonder if any aftermarket companies make a harden billet one? I think I might take the Alexander advise and put 1 spacer on each clutch peg. So it'll move the shoes further inside the clutch bell. What sucks is now I've got to remove all that crap to get to the trans. I wish I had a t-maxx right now. The trans is easier to remove. Lol.

 

[olds97_lss]

Better to notice it now than after you chew up a few spurs and can't figure out why.

For my money, I'd grind the collet down a bit to move the flywheel closer to the engine (without rubbing) then reshim the bell as needed for fit. And probably look at that input shaft before you start going through spurs.

 

[leadfoot567]

Better to notice it now than after you chew up a few spurs and can't figure out why.

For my money, I'd grind the collet down a bit to move the flywheel closer to the engine (without rubbing) then reshim the bell as needed for fit. And probably look at that input shaft before you start going through spurs.

Yup, you're correct. I've already done that once. That's why I went to the metal RR gears. Any tips on what I should use to grind down the brass collet? Also is there any trick to removing and installing the clutch shoes? I bought a Duratrax clutch installation tool. But it seems to make things harder. I've had better luck with a pick tool.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

I just use a small flat head screw driver to pry the spring off of the flywheel nut, then I use my hands for the rest.

HPI has come a long way in offering their own metal gears, RRP is no slouch either, I've had solid luck with both, except this one RRP spur that my savage chewed up, and spit out, although I may have over tightened the slipper, and damaged the RRP bearing....jury's still out.

If your going to break your savage down to the point where you can swap out that input-shaft, if its bent, then just for kicks, pull the motor plate, and see if its warped, I think I went through two stock motor plates, before I ordered the HPI LCG kit, it comes with a thick motor plate that has milled fins on the underside.

 

[leadfoot567]

I just use a small flat head screw driver to pry the spring off of the flywheel nut, then I use my hands for the rest.

HPI has come a long way in offering their own metal gears, RRP is no slouch either, I've had solid luck with both, except this one RRP spur that my savage chewed up, and spit out, although I may have over tightened the slipper, and damaged the RRP bearing....jury's still out.

If your going to break your savage down to the point where you can swap out that input-shaft, if its bent, then just for kicks, pull the motor plate, and see if its warped, I think I went through two stock motor plates, before I ordered the HPI LCG kit, it comes with a thick motor plate that has milled fins on the underside.

Yeah, I know what you mean. I've always used RRP gears without any problems. But this engine I put of my Savage has huge amounts of torque. I had to tighten down the slipper nut all the way until the spring is fully compressed. Just so the slipper pad wouldn't burn out. I've never been able to find any hardened spur gears made by anyone else besides RRP for the Savage? I wondering if any other aftermarket company makes hardened steel input ahafts for the spur gear. Also besides replacing HPI part number 86089. Should I also replace HPI part numbers 86088, & 86081? I'm not sure what would make that spur gear wobble a lot beside a bent input shaft?

 

[leadfoot567]

Yeah, I know what you mean. I've always used RRP gears without any problems. But this engine I put of my Savage has huge amounts of torque. I had to tighten down the slipper nut all the way until the spring is fully compressed. Just so the slipper pad wouldn't burn out. I've never been able to find any hardened spur gears made by anyone else besides RRP for the Savage? I wondering if any other aftermarket company makes hardened steel input ahafts for the spur gear. Also besides replacing HPI part number 86089. Should I also replace HPI part numbers 86088, & 86081? I'm not sure what would make that spur gear wobble a lot beside a bent input shaft?

Cool. Do you have that HPI part number or a link that I can find that LCG kit with the motor plate? I'm going to remove the tranny from the truck and do a complete overall w/ new bearings, gears, shafts, etc... I bought a team integy aluminum engine mount. It looks stronger than the stock mount from HPI. Crossing my fingers to see if all this rebuild work will fix these problems that I'm having. Will post my results. Special thanks to Alexander, & Olds for all the help!

Cool. Do you have that HPI part number or a link that I can find that LCG kit with the motor plate? I'm going to remove the tranny from the truck and do a complete overall w/ new bearings, gears, shafts, etc... I bought a team integy aluminum engine mount. It looks stronger than the stock mount from HPI. Crossing my fingers to see if all this rebuild work will fix these problems that I'm having. Will post my results. Special thanks to Alexander, & Olds for all the help!

Here's a picture of that engine mount.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

Actually, I haven't been able to find one anywhere, its probably discontinued, a lot of stuff for the savage line up isn't around anymore. But if your really wanting an LCG kit for your savage you could try these site.

http://www.innovative-rc.com/savage-c-27_52.html

http://www.rc-monster.com/products.php?cat=109

 

[olds97_lss]

Yeah, I know what you mean. I've always used RRP gears without any problems. But this engine I put of my Savage has huge amounts of torque. I had to tighten down the slipper nut all the way until the spring is fully compressed. Just so the slipper pad wouldn't burn out. I've never been able to find any hardened spur gears made by anyone else besides RRP for the Savage? I wondering if any other aftermarket company makes hardened steel input ahafts for the spur gear. Also besides replacing HPI part number 86089. Should I also replace HPI part numbers 86088, & 86081? I'm not sure what would make that spur gear wobble a lot beside a bent input shaft?

HPI makes a steel spur, that's what I'm running in mine. I think that 86081 is your output shaft. No need to replace that or the other unless it's bent too. I'd replace the input shafts bearings and the input shaft.