Tuned Pipes for Savage

[leadfoot567]

Hello Everyone,

Anybody know of any good tuned pipe & header for the HPI Savage besides the HPI brand? I've used RD Logics before, and their good pipes. But there getting hard to find. None of my local hobby shops can even order it. I've had the HPI ones, but there loud & slow. Looking for a good tuned pipe system that has good performance and sound.

 

[olds97_lss]

A bolt on or "some finagling required"?

THS makes one:
http://www.mcssl.com/store/903f3169...b/18-savage-25-28-engine-tuned-exhaust-system

I have their small block and big block revo pipes. The revo BB pipe I think was made for the stock traxxas kit as it's angled really badly for the new era type mount, but other than that, it works well with my LRP28S3 I have in the revo. Would assume the savage pipe would fit on your rig without any weirdness like mine.

Their torque pipe for the small block revo really perked up the 3.3.

These guys also make one that fits I believe:
http://www.extremercmods.com/pipes

Pricey and noisy, but those that have them seem to really like them.

 

[leadfoot567]

A bolt on or "some finagling required"?

THS makes one:
http://www.mcssl.com/store/903f3169...b/18-savage-25-28-engine-tuned-exhaust-system

I have their small block and big block revo pipes. The revo BB pipe I think was made for the stock traxxas kit as it's angled really badly for the new era type mount, but other than that, it works well with my LRP28S3 I have in the revo. Would assume the savage pipe would fit on your rig without any weirdness like mine.

Their torque pipe for the small block revo really perked up the 3.3.

These guys also make one that fits I believe:
http://www.extremercmods.com/pipes

Pricey and noisy, but those that have them seem to really like them.

Thanks olds97. I'm looking for a header & tuned pipe system that won't require any mods. I've seen those THS tuned pipe systems before. But I've never owned one. Are they any good? Do they have good sound and are easy to tune? Or should I just keep searching for an RD Logics brand?

 

[olds97_lss]

I'd say you couldn't go wrong with a THS pipe. I've only had these two, but they work really well.

 

[leadfoot567]

I'd say you couldn't go wrong with a THS pipe. I've only had these two, but they work really well.

Thanks again olds97! I've got another issue. I'm having a problem with my clutch bell. I've switched to another aftermarket .28 engine. But the clutch bell face is (outer diameter of the clutch bell that the clutch shoes are behind) is really close to touching the spur gear. there's a 2mm gap between the clutch bell gear and the spur gear. I did however add a Robinson Racing steel clutch bell & steel spur gear combo. Not sure if that's the problem. The gear mesh is correct. I'm thinking of sanding down the brass collet behind the flywheel. I think this should move the clutch bell gear closer towards the engine block.

 

[griff7373]

Thanks again olds97! I've got another issue. I'm having a problem with my clutch bell. I've switched to another aftermarket .28 engine. But the clutch bell face is (outer diameter of the clutch bell that the clutch shoes are behind) is really close to touching the spur gear. there's a 2mm gap between the clutch bell gear and the spur gear. I did however add a Robinson Racing steel clutch bell & steel spur gear combo. Not sure if that's the problem. The gear mesh is correct. I'm thinking of sanding down the brass collet behind the flywheel. I think this should move the clutch bell gear closer towards the engine block.

That should work how much of the collet is sticking out of the flywheel?

 

[leadfoot567]

That should work how much of the collet is sticking out of the flywheel?

I'd say about 6mm-10mm. I haven't measured it yet. I'm just eyeballing it. I don't want to sand it down too far. Because then the gears won't be I line with each other. But the clutch bell is so close to the spur gear, that it rubs against my dual disc brakes. And it occasionally touches the spur gear when the rpm's really get spinning.

 

[griff7373]

Take a couple mill off the collet that will give you the additional clearance you need, take away a little at the time until you are happy with it.

 

[leadfoot567]

Take a couple mill off the collet that will give you the additional clearance you need, take away a little at the time until you are happy with it.

Cool, thanks again for all the info. It's been so long since I was really into this hobby. Now, I'm just getting back into my nitro babies. I wish somebody made different thickness of the brass collet's. Like Ofna offers different thickness for the clutch bell spacers & washers. What should I use to sand that down? I tried to use 60 grit sandpaper, but that seemed to take forever! But then again I don't want to use a belt sander, or any other power tools. Because that might take too much off at one time.

 

[griff7373]

I believe I used a file layed down and held the collet down on it flat and just worked over it slowly. It has been several years since I did it

 

[leadfoot567]

I believe I used a file layed down and held the collet down on it flat and just worked over it slowly. It has been several years since I did it

Cool. Thanks. Any good tips on how to tune a low speed needle? I either get it too lean or too rich. I can't figure out how to find the "sweet spot?" Like I said before I haven't ran my Savage in awhile. I've bought brand new fuel & glow plug & new fuel tubing. But still having issues. I think I tune the high speed needle first, then the low speed needle, then the idle screw. If I remember correctly? Oh well back to the drawing board. lol

 

[olds97_lss]

Get yourself a bell shim kit. Will make things a lot easier, especially if you get a new engine or something.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars...n10099/p5428?gclid=CNfltKKLpcgCFQ-SaQodlTkMUw

Then you don't have to be afraid to grind down the collet.

 

[leadfoot567]

Get yourself a bell shim kit. Will make things a lot easier, especially if you get a new engine or something.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars...n10099/p5428?gclid=CNfltKKLpcgCFQ-SaQodlTkMUw

Then you don't have to be afraid to grind down the collet.

I have that Ofna clutch spacer/shim kit. But unfortunately I need to move the clutch bell gear more towards the crankcase. That shim kit moves the clutch bell away from the crankcase. With all of my nitro engine swaps I've done over the years. This is the first time I've encountered this problem. I'll snap a picture of the problem. It might help explain things better. Are we able to upload pictures on this thread?

 

[Alexander_0_1]

I'm gonna wager you don't need to file down a collet. so much as the right flywheel for the different engine you decided to use.

We need a pic of the misalignment.

 

[leadfoot567]

I'm gonna wager you don't need to file down a collet. so much as the right flywheel for the different engine you decided to use.

We need a pic of the misalignment.

I'm just using the stock HPI Savage 25 flywheel. But according to HPI, that's the same 3 clutch shoe design for the Savage-X and the Savage S/S kit. Here's a picture of the flywheel that I'm using. I'll take a picture of my truck and upload that later.

 

[leadfoot567]

I'm gonna wager you don't need to file down a collet. so much as the right flywheel for the different engine you decided to use.

We need a pic of the misalignment.

Okay here's 2 pictures. I tried my best to get some close up's. The distance between the clutch bell & spur gear might be ok. But I know the spur gear wobbles a little. I think that's because of the slipper spur pad. Even though it's a steel & clutch bell combo by Robinson Racing. You can even see where the clutch bell has rubbing marks on it from the dual disk brake upgrade that I installed. I filled down the brass collet a little bit. To gain some more room. Because it was almost touching when I did the engine swap. I also installed a Team Integy billet aluminum engine mount in stead of the stock one, but it didn't improve the distance. Anyways here you go!

 

[Alexander_0_1]

The alignment of your spur & clutch bell looks fine to me. Sometimes the rubbing of brakes discs on the clutch bell is due to there being too much play between the discs, and the brake hex. I've actually had a savage lock up because the brake disc fell mostly off the brake hex and wedged itself between the driveshaft and motor plate. Although I have seen a few savages sporting dual brakes setups and they all seemed to have a little bit of rubbing in the same place as your clutch bell.

 

[olds97_lss]

Do you have any shims on the shaft before the first CB bearing?

 

[griff7373]

that's what it looks like to me, the clutchbell should sit a little closer to the flywheel.

 

[Alexander_0_1]

Mine look exactly like that when I swapped out the stock clutch pads for ofna ones. I used one shim on each post between the flywheel, and the clutch pads, and an extra washer on the crank case shaft, only cause I noticed the anodizing getting shaved off on the flywheel, and clutch bell sides just as much as the contact areas.