Revo Truggy Build

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Well i just ordered a 40 tooth spur. The spur i have right now is a 36 tooth.

I have learned that if i want to run any spur larger than a 40 tooth id have to cut a notch out of the chassis. Hopfully when the 40t comes in well see how much it closes the gap. So far the largest clutch bell i can find thats a mod 1 is 20t so ill have to look more.
 
The only thing is the t maxx uses a .8 pitch on the teeth. Which is much more closer together than the revo's teeth. i noticed the tmaxx, jato, and a few other clutch bells are .8 pitch. The revo and savage use a .1 so as long as its a .1 ill be good.

I also ordered a 3 shoe traxxas flywheel. But until it gets here i won't know what will work with what. I'm going to see how the savage clutch bell works with it. If it works alright I'm gonna also look into savage clutch bells and see if i can find a 22 tooth.

I have found a 20 t. I suppose when the 40 tooth spur comes in ill be able to sort of estimate how many more teeth other the clutch bell side are needed to work.



Besides that i have my body coming in along with my battery pack and throttle servo ! soon as i get this engine properly engaged with the spur i can work on getting the throttle linkage worked out and right and then start it up !
 
That one looks nice, but looks like you have to run a flat back plate so he probably has to use a starter box. The whole reason i sort of did it this way was to be able to keep a pullstart. But maybe I'm not going to be able to get this style of engine mount to work. Ill have to see when the new spur comes in. ill have to just try to get a larger gears. if that does work.. ill probably be getting the era BB kit.
 
Yep a starter box is required but I prefer that over my pull starter I don't race just mess around the yard with it now.

http://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/5360X_Revo_INST_121218_1.pdf
You probably got the instructions with your kit but just to make sure.
Here is a couple of pics mine
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EBVO_005__Medium_.jpg


photo3.jpg


you will notice my engine doesn't quite have as much lean as yours. Excuse the dates the camera was off when the photos where taken and not sure I even remember what rcpics.net is. The top photos where taken back in 06 or 07 shortly after acquiring my REVO and the bottom one is more recent.
 
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Looks good, i just don't like any form of electronic starting. Pull start to me is my favorite method. Mainly because i don't like the idea that if i flip my truck over or it stalls from far away i have to go get it bring it back to the electric starter and try again. With a pull start i can just carry my glow plug igniter in my pocket and start it anywhere.

Its also one less battery to worry about dying out. I've had multiple times where id be out having fun and have my truck stall or something and my starter battery would just be dead. and id have to borrow a friends battery or just stop driving for the day and go back home to charge it.


Small update aswell

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trimmed. Just need to cut off the floor panel area and clean it all up and it will be ready for paint !
 
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I like the looks of that body, do you have a part number for it?
Are you going to put a rear wing on your rig?
 
Yep ! sure am i just ordered the wing kit now.

Its the proline bulldog body.

Another user on here told me to buy the body for the MBX6T and i did. It fits like a charm !
 
I've been watching this build for a bit ,just completed a true bb conversion myself using a lrp .28 and a new era mount which also allows a pull start .couple of questions ,is it just me or does it look like your engine is leaning too far towards the chassis or is that because of the mount , I'm aware of the fact that because pull start is retained you need to lean the motor but I have a pull start and have zero problems meshing 17/36 gearing and can go up to a 20t bell with no issues. I don't want to be rude but have you installed the mount properly? to me it just don't look right.
other than that its coming along real good ,I would suggest using a savage clutch kit ,most times the chop shops have them with a 17t bell which is perfect for this conversion imho

http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a569/bigbozza242/Mobile Uploads/20141028_195927_zpsfsfhcyz7.jpg
 
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I've been watching this build for a bit ,just completed a true bb conversion myself using a lrp .28 and a new era mount which also allows a pull start .couple of questions ,is it just me or does it look like your engine is leaning too far towards the chassis or is that because of the mount , I'm aware of the fact that because pull start is retained you need to lean the motor but I have a pull start and have zero problems meshing 17/36 gearing and can go up to a 20t bell with no issues. I don't want to be rude but have you installed the mount properly? to me it just don't look right.
other than that its coming along real good ,I would suggest using a savage clutch kit ,most times the chop shops have them with a 17t bell which is perfect for this conversion imho

http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a569/bigbozza242/Mobile Uploads/20141028_195927_zpsfsfhcyz7.jpg

In my post awhile back i explained that i modified the big block mount kit that i had. Usually the way it mounts is straight up and down with barley any lean. and it would force me to use a starter box.

So instead of installing it the traditional way i had to modify it, because my .28 just doesn't work with how that big block kit is designed. So i had to mount it differently ( not like the instructions say ) and i was able to keep a pull starter and not have to buy another big block kit. I really don't want to buy another BB kit. Just wanna use what i have and make it work. But if i can't make the traxxas big block kit work than ill have to toss the whole setup and go with another BB kit. which I'm not fond of the idea.
 
i have seen somewhere that some has modified the trx mount to work with a pull start ,from memory there was a small issue with the upper arm hitting the ps at pull compression, I just don't see how you can get the gears to mesh with such a lean ,I you do I'm all ears...
 
mainly I'm just hoping a 40 tooth spur gear will close the gap enough to run a 20 t and have them mesh. Really i don't see any other option to get the .28 to fit with the traxxas bb kit with a pull start. I can get the engine to work and mesh fine with it normal But the pull start would easily hit the arm. Even a roto start back plate hits pretty badly.

To me its either have the engine like this and try to find a large enough spur and CB to close up that gap or buy another BB mount with the ERA kit. But at the moment there is no way for me to afford another BB kit. I've been building this truck with a tight budget and id like to use what ever i have to get it to work. I pretty much need to wait for the 40 t spur gear to come in to see what the gap then looks like. If it looks doable ill get a 20t clutch bell and see how it works. If not.. ill have to save up for awhile to get the era kit.

But yeah the only things left are the radio/receiver and paint. I have the wing and high torque steering servo on its way.
 
Small mini update:

Wing kit came in and i think it looks great !!
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And the 40 t spur came in and it did close the gap a bit. But sadely i don't think even a 20 T clutch bell will work. Just the gap is much to far.

I think I'm going to just buy the ERA kit.

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I know i haven't updated this in awhile. But the truck is nearly complete. I still have the proper clutch bell on its way. But i decided to start it and break it in the first tank.
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Ran great ! I am forced to run the stock exhaust because i had to buy the cheapest one i can to be able to atleast get it started. So after adjusting and about 2 restarts to the first tank at idling it did great. I had it running extremely rich to the point where when i finished the tank there was a large puddle of oil. Idled at a steady 156-158 degrees and maintained it through out.

1117141544_zps6e38de30.jpg

I must say for an engine under a 100 dollars i love this thing. Its a turbo plug seg .28 from hobby king.

I'm sure after i get a .28 exhaust it will open it up nicely.

I had to make my own throttle linkage and modify some things for the throttle components but they work flawlessly.

Now i just need to work on getting that clutch bell here and putting it on to later drive it for the second tank. Excited !
 
did you get it to work with your modded trx mount??
 
did you get it to work with your modded trx mount??

Well today ill find out if the clutch bell i ordered will work. If its big enough then it should work ! But its had to say at this moment. When i started it and let it idle the engine mount seemed to do perfectly fine. and i modded it so i have some more room to close in the gear mesh gap. excited to get it driving. Hopefully !!!
 
good stuff ,you will have to do a write up on how modded your mount to work ,I'm sure there are a few people out there that are inn the same boat not being able to locate a new era mount and still wanting to run a pullstart
 
good stuff ,you will have to do a write up on how modded your mount to work ,I'm sure there are a few people out there that are inn the same boat not being able to locate a new era mount and still wanting to run a pullstart
Yeah i hope it can be useful for other people !

The clutch bell unfortunately didn't come in today so maybe tomorrow. If it works well and holds up after the break in ill probably show it on the forum. I don't want to just show people this idea and have it fail when i try to drive it cuz then i don't want anyone spending money and have the same problem happen. But i will say the way i have it is very sturdy and rigid. I'm confident in it so far.
 
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