What’s up for Review: PE-1 Temp gauge from TEMPGUN.COM

How Much for this Product: The PE-1 is priced at $25.00 USD

Range of gun: The gun has a rang of (-27°F to 428°F) and when switched to Celsius (-33°C to 220°C)

The PE-1 only weights 36 grams and fits in the palm of your hand so when you’re running after a flipped over R/C you won’t be bothered by it. Then gun comes stock with a wrist wrap, which comes in handy when tuning your R/C’s. Are you worried that you will have to replace the battery soon? Well the battery that is included with your purchase will last for 40 hours of continuous use, now that’s a lot!

It also has features like Min, Max and Lock good to use to track the highest and lowest temperature’s of your R/C and there is an optional aluminum case that you can purchase for your gun. The PE-1 is the cheaper route but yet is the smarter route. The range you need for your R/C temps is perfect! The size of the PE-1 not only is comfortable in your hand and pocket but it also fits the best in your cooling head with its narrow design so you can get as close to the glow plug as you can for accurate readings. This gun is affordable and easy to use and it is one of the best guns that TempGun.com provides for R/C usages.

Introduction:

When you purchase your Nitro Rustler roll cage you will need these things handy. Some Hex Drivers or Allen Wrenches, Loctite, and a little patience to read through all of the directions supplied with your purchase to assemble your roll cage. The supplied directions are in full color, great detail and will seem like installing the cage a breeze. If you choose not to use Loctite the screws will rattle loose and fall out. I experienced this myself.

Assembly:

The assembly of the roll cage went Click to continue »

RC-Parts Aluminum Shreds for the Nitro Rustler.

• Rims
• Tire Glue
• Sand Paper

The RC-Parts aluminum rims are a great Hop-Up for your Nitro Rustler. It gives it the extra “B” everyone is looking for. The rims are weighing in at a total of 1.8 ounces each for a total amount of 7.2 ounces added to your stadium truck. With only adding Click to continue »

So, you want some BLING on your RC? Then RAM Tech RC has what you need. Whether is is chromed up rims and spinners to the rugged look of brushed aluminum, RAM Tech has got it.

What’s included:

• Four spinners with bearings installed.
• Four short posts or non-offset rims.
• Four long posts for offset rims.

What you need:

1. 3.0 mm hex driver.
2. Your choice of rubber to put on the rims (Savage stockers pictured above.

NOTE: Be certain to order the right set of spinners as the T-Maxx spinners do not come with the posts necessary for use on the cross threaded side of the Savage.

Review:

These were some of the best constructed spinners I have seen. I am not much into BLING, but decided to check them out and compare them with ProLine’s kit. Talk about tough as nails and precision construction. The ProLine kit is smooth and plastic. The RAM Tech kit is much more smooth and aluminum. Which would you choose for your ride? Same here, I’d go with the strength and the look.
Click to continue »

Introduction:

What you will need for installation:

This is based on the assumption these will be added to a stock T-Maxx, if other after market hop ups, or fasteners have been used this list will vary

- Quality #2 screwdriver
- 1.5mm hex driver
- Locktite

After receiving the Bulkheads, I gave them the once over, they looked very nice, and to be well made. They appeared to be machined to where weight was removed from them without sacrificing structural integrity. The hinge pins were included, and after checking them out, I noticed right away that that there were no grooves in the pins for e-clips. The pins are held in by two allen set screws for each pin, through the bulkhead. After checking everything out I was ready to start wrenching.

Installation:

To begin the installation of the new bulks I first had to remove the old ones.

Remove the wheels and tires from the truck. The entire suspension assemblies can be easily removed from the chassis of the truck. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws holding the skid plates to the bulks and chassis braces. Remove the four screws that hold the chassis to the top of the bulk, you will have to remove the engine in order to have access to these screws on the rear bulk. The complete assembly should now be able to be easily removed from the truck. Remove the bumper and brackets holding them to the bulks and remove the bulkhead braces. Remove the shocks from the truck. Then remove the four Phillips screws holding the shock towers to the bulkheads. Pull the two bulkheads apart and remove the diff, note the direction of the diff, if installed backwards they will fight against each other and cause the truck not to drive. Now your ready for the installation of the new bulks.

Begin by inserting the diff between the two front or rear bulkheads, making sure to put it back in the correct position. I then installed the bumper mounts only with no bumpers on them, to the bulks, in to the braces. This will help hold it together as you continue. Next I installed the lower a-arms using the supplied RC Solutions hinge pins, making sure to use locktite on the four 1.5mm allen set screws that hold the pins to the arms. This must be done prior to installing the skid as the skid will completely cover the lower arm set screws. Then install the skid, remember to locktite the screws since they are now going in to aluminum as opposed to plastic. Next I installed the upper arms with the supplied pins using locktite on those set screws. After this I reinstalled the knuckles, turnbuckles, drive shafts, and bumpers.

Introduction:

What you will need for installation:
- Quality #1 Phillips screwdriver. I prefer a flat nose #1 as it will sit deeper in the screw head, with less chance of stripping a screw.
- Locktite

Upon receiving the skids and bumpers I removed them from the package and gave them the once over. Overall they looked really nice. No instructions for installation were included, but it was self explanatory and quite simple.

Interlocking Skid Installation:

- Step 1: Remove the existing 8 phillips head screws in the rear skid, the 10 phillips head screws for the front skid. Two of the screws in the front skid will be machine screws that attach to the steering bell crank posts. Remove factory skids and plates.

- Step 2: Install the front skid. Since the skids do not come with new hardware you will need to reuse the screws you removed from the factory skids. Install the new front skid, remember to use loctite on the two machine screws that hold the steering bell crank posts to the skid.

- Step 3: Install the center skid. The center skid locks underneath the front and rear skid so you will need to install this one next. The center skid does include the 4 phillips head screws to attach it to the chassis supports. Insert one end of the skid under the front skid and line up the four predrilled holes in the chassis braces with the four countersunk holes in the skid, now install the four Phillips head screws.

- Step 4: Install the rear skid by reinstalling the 8 phillips head screws you removed from the factory skids.