RC Solutions XXX-NT Front Steel Skid

When I first received the skid from Scott at RC Solutions, I was very impressed with it. I really liked the design, both for functionality as well as looks. Installation was a breeze and only took a few minutes.
Tools required:
Driver, whatever type you need for the type screws in your truck. Mine uses stainless steel hex head screws.
Installation:
Installation was quite simple. All that is required is a driver to remove the 4 screws that hold the stock plastic skid to the truck, and the first two in the end of the chassis. Remove these 6 screws, and remove the stock skid. Then simply place the RC Solutions skid over the chassis and replace the 6 screws. That’s it, you’re done.
Results:
After a good bash session at Boggy Creek Raceway, the skid did it’s job! It held up great to a good thrashing. I am very pleased with the skids performance and appearance, and would highly recommend them to anyone thinking of adding some protection to their XXX-NT. My only complaint is that they don’t make a rear skid yet.
RC Solutions Nitro Rustler Roll Cage
Introduction:
When you purchase your Nitro Rustler roll cage you will need these things handy. Some Hex Drivers or Allen Wrenches, Loctite, and a little patience to read through all of the directions supplied with your purchase to assemble your roll cage. The supplied directions are in full color, great detail and will seem like installing the cage a breeze. If you choose not to use Loctite the screws will rattle loose and fall out. I experienced this myself.
Assembly:
The assembly of the roll cage went Click to continue…
RC-Solutions T-Maxx Bulkheads
Introduction:
What you will need for installation:
This is based on the assumption these will be added to a stock T-Maxx, if other after market hop ups, or fasteners have been used this list will vary
- Quality #2 screwdriver
- 1.5mm hex driver
- Locktite
After receiving the Bulkheads, I gave them the once over, they looked very nice, and to be well made. They appeared to be machined to where weight was removed from them without sacrificing structural integrity. The hinge pins were included, and after checking them out, I noticed right away that that there were no grooves in the pins for e-clips. The pins are held in by two allen set screws for each pin, through the bulkhead. After checking everything out I was ready to start wrenching.

Installation:
To begin the installation of the new bulks I first had to remove the old ones.
Remove the wheels and tires from the truck. The entire suspension assemblies can be easily removed from the chassis of the truck. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws holding the skid plates to the bulks and chassis braces. Remove the four screws that hold the chassis to the top of the bulk, you will have to remove the engine in order to have access to these screws on the rear bulk. The complete assembly should now be able to be easily removed from the truck. Remove the bumper and brackets holding them to the bulks and remove the bulkhead braces. Remove the shocks from the truck. Then remove the four Phillips screws holding the shock towers to the bulkheads. Pull the two bulkheads apart and remove the diff, note the direction of the diff, if installed backwards they will fight against each other and cause the truck not to drive. Now your ready for the installation of the new bulks.
Begin by inserting the diff between the two front or rear bulkheads, making sure to put it back in the correct position. I then installed the bumper mounts only with no bumpers on them, to the bulks, in to the braces. This will help hold it together as you continue. Next I installed the lower a-arms using the supplied RC Solutions hinge pins, making sure to use locktite on the four 1.5mm allen set screws that hold the pins to the arms. This must be done prior to installing the skid as the skid will completely cover the lower arm set screws. Then install the skid, remember to locktite the screws since they are now going in to aluminum as opposed to plastic. Next I installed the upper arms with the supplied pins using locktite on those set screws. After this I reinstalled the knuckles, turnbuckles, drive shafts, and bumpers.


JNR Racing Aluminum Skids and Bumpers
Introduction:
What you will need for installation:
- Quality #1 Phillips screwdriver. I prefer a flat nose #1 as it will sit deeper in the screw head, with less chance of stripping a screw.
- Locktite
Upon receiving the skids and bumpers I removed them from the package and gave them the once over. Overall they looked really nice. No instructions for installation were included, but it was self explanatory and quite simple.
Interlocking Skid Installation:
- Step 1: Remove the existing 8 phillips head screws in the rear skid, the 10 phillips head screws for the front skid. Two of the screws in the front skid will be machine screws that attach to the steering bell crank posts. Remove factory skids and plates.
- Step 2: Install the front skid. Since the skids do not come with new hardware you will need to reuse the screws you removed from the factory skids. Install the new front skid, remember to use loctite on the two machine screws that hold the steering bell crank posts to the skid.

- Step 3: Install the center skid. The center skid locks underneath the front and rear skid so you will need to install this one next. The center skid does include the 4 phillips head screws to attach it to the chassis supports. Insert one end of the skid under the front skid and line up the four predrilled holes in the chassis braces with the four countersunk holes in the skid, now install the four Phillips head screws.

- Step 4: Install the rear skid by reinstalling the 8 phillips head screws you removed from the factory skids.





